Although talented climbers dare to face the Stawamus Chief's challenging pitches on a daily basis these days, that wasn't always the case.
In 1958, when Ed Cooper first set eyes on the massive granite monolith, it was not with a desire to conquer.
"The first time I gazed at the Chief, in 1958, it was with awe, and without a thought of attempting it," wrote Cooper in 1962.
"One's technique and ambition grow, and in the fall of 1960 while rock climbing in the area with Jim Baldwin of Prince Rupert, B.C., we looked at the 1,700-foot face of the Squamish Chief and decided it didn't look so bad. In fact, we would have started up at once except it was late in the year (November) and the monsoons had come.
"Instead we planned a spring assault."
On a rain-soaked morning in May 1961, amid the snow-capped mountains and verdant forests of Squamish, Cooper and Baldwin started up the "unclimbable" Stawamus Chief.
Within two weeks, news of their attempt had spread and soon 12,000 cars crowded the base of the Chief while the climbers braved not only the demanding rock with primitive equipment, but also the relentless heat, mosquitoes and a barrage of reporters.
Onlookers were convinced they were about to witness a deadly fall or the climbers admitting defeat, but the small community of Squamish rallied behind their cause.
"Before we realized what happened, the residents of Squamish, not without some interest in the tourist business, sponsored us everything we needed, including 1,500 feet of nylon rope," wrote Cooper.
"Quite novel and enjoyable at first, all this attention that we received turned from a boon almost to a bane. We were not left alone for a moment. One afternoon a newspaperman had the gall to shout up at us to come down immediately so he could get some pictures."
Despite feeling the climb had lost some of its original sincerity, Cooper and Baldwin laboured upward for several weeks and crested the climb.
"The very last piton came out as Jim grabbed a bush overhanging the diedre," wrote Cooper. "Less than a half an hour later, late in the afternoon of the fifth day, we reached the cool water of the stream running beside the trail up the back side of the Chief, and drank our fill of that sweet nectar of life."
Although Cooper's climbing partner Baldwin cannot be with him at this year's Squamish Mountain Festival to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first ascent, Cooper will share his memories of the adventure and show the documentary film "In the Shadow of the Chief."
This archival footage is a unique look at part of B.C.'s climbing history and the spirit of the community that rallied behind the climbers, and is one of several inspirational climbing movies shown throughout the festival.
Squamish Mountain Festival runs July 13 to 17 and includes clinics and workshops, a photo contest, a trade fair and demo gear, yoga, dodgeball, inspirational speakers and much more. Cooper will be among the speakers on "Big Wall Night" on Saturday (July 16) at 7 p.m. at the Eagle Eye Theatre. Tickets are $15 in advance, $17 at the door. For more information visit www.squamishmountainfestival.com.
