I remember vividly when I first learned about Lake Lovely Water. I’d only been in Squamish for a short while and I decided to pick up a trail map at the Squamish Adventure Centre in town to get some ideas about where to check out and explore during my free time.
I could see lakes like Levette, Brohm, Cat, Alice and then Lake Lovely Water in the Tantalus Range, with a dotted line indicating a trail starting from the banks of the Squamish River. With a name like that alone it had piqued my curiosity.
I’d like to admit that a rose by any other name wouldn’t smell as sweet, but when it comes to the mountains I believe a good name goes a long way towards sparking the imagination and compelling adventurers to visit these places. We happen to be surrounded by a few places here in Squamish that have pretty alluring names in my opinion like Cloudburst, Tantalus, The Black Tusk, Sky Pilot and, of course, Lake Lovely Water.
The captivating nature of reading about Lake Lovely Water grew when I learned that there was a greater difficulty in reaching this place compared to the majority of the other lakes near Squamish. You can either pay to get flown to it by helicopter or float plane, or tackle a crossing of the Squamish River before beginning a gruelling, steep hike uphill through dense coastal rainforest. I read stories about individuals losing the trail, getting lost and sleeping out in the forest overnight before eventually reaching the lake a day later.
While the Internet and the modern age has made reaching this lake easier, and the increased traffic to it now has made the trail more well worn and distinct, it’s still no casual walk in the park to reach this place if you wish to forgo the use of engines and go self-propelled.
My experiences with this lake have mostly been a tapestry of storied adventures, some of which have gone awry, but others that have been a complete success. I’ve learned through all of my visits to the Tantalus Range and Lake Lovely Water to never become complacent about the wild nature of this place. Getting into it and getting out of it again can be a challenge for anyone at any time.
On my first visit to Lake Lovely Water, back in 2012, I reached the lake after dreaming about doing so for close to two years prior. We chartered a jet boat to take us up to the trailhead and across the Squamish River.
On that trip we chose to camp out at the sand spit camp on the south shores of the lake as we had plans to visit some of the summits of the peaks that lay behind it. We hardly had enough time to pitch our tents before we were off again hiking up towards Niobe Meadows and the mountains higher beyond. I consoled myself with the fact that I would be back at the lake again by that evening to truly take time to soak it in. Little did I know that would never happen.
Our objective for that first day was Omega Mountain. We knew there was an easier scramble route to the top of it but very little had been written about it online, so we decided to go check it out to see for ourselves. After a few moves of scrambling we reached a long plateau leading up to the summit proper. We had easily overcome the difficulties and now just needed to walk for a few minutes before gaining the top and views down towards Brackendale and Garibaldi Highlands.
As I walked I stepped on a rock with my left foot that suddenly gave out below me. My left ankle rolled inward and I heard an audible “pop!” My friends heard it too and came running toward me. As I sat there, my ankle numb, I was in disbelief that anything serious had happened. I rested for a minute before attempting to walk on. I stood up and stepped forward onto my left ankle again, only for it to completely give out below me. My friends caught me this time as I fell.
We sat, contemplating our options and the logistics of reversing the steep route we had come up when I now had only one usable ankle. All the while, the clouds circled overhead, threatening to envelop us.
We made a quick decision. At the summit of Omega we knew we’d be able to see Squamish, and also have cell reception. We realized we didn’t have a choice, with only a few hours of daylight left we decided to contact Squamish Search and Rescue, so that I could get extricated. Two of my friends ran ahead to make the call while two others stayed behind to help me get to where a rescue helicopter might reach me.
With a combination of being carried, crawling and hopping on one foot I made it to a point of visibility near the summit about an hour later, the same distance my two friends had been able to cover in less than five minutes when they had ran ahead and called for help.
Shortly afterwards a helicopter hovered nearby and Squamish SAR volunteers bundled me inside. It was as close to being the exact opposite experience I wanted to have on my first visit to Lake Lovely Water, but there it was.
Over the following years, I’ve returned to this lake on a number of occasions, climbing up peaks around it, canoing across it and gaining different and unique vantage points to look down on it. While my first visit to it was soured by an injury it still didn’t change the fact that this is one of the most visually stunning locations near Squamish.
Whenever I hear mention of people visiting this place I ask questions to hear where they went and what they saw.
If you are planning a visit to Lake Lovely Water yourself you have a few options on where to stay. There is the sand spit camp on the south shores. This area tends to have a nice breeze coming through it from a creek running nearby that keeps the bugs away.
You can, of course, also stay at the Tantalus Hut, which is operated by the Alpine Club of Canada. You will need to pay and reserve ahead of time to use this hut, but it is well worth it, especially as it gives you access to canoes to take out on the lake. Near the Tantalus Hut there is also free camping and if you hike around the north shore of the lake you can find abundant camping options in a basin known locally as the “Russian Army Camp.”
In regards to the river crossing, I’ve used a variety of methods of getting across and by far the best is to just canoe it. It takes a bit more planning, but it will save you a lot of headaches – especially when you return after possibly a tiring trip and need to cross back over the river again. Have fun, be safe and if you have the opportunity, definitely consider visiting Lake Lovely Water.
