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San Juan Islands: A week on the water

From serene to bustling, Washington island chain is a perfect summer getaway
Kelley Scarsbrook
My husband David, children; Jacqueline and William on the runabout to put crab traps down, with our chartered boat “Stardust” in the background.

The San Juan Islands are pristine and tranquil, situated just off the northwest tip of Washington State. They are part of the same island chain that extends north into Canada, known as the Gulf Islands. Although there is ferry service provided to some of the San Juan Islands, many islands and marine parks are only accessible via private boat.

If you don’t have a boat, one option is to do a bareboat charter. We opted to rent one for a week through San Juan Yachting, located in Squalicum Harbour in Bellingham. 

If you are up for exploring, Sucia Island is one not to be missed. An enjoyable trail around the island takes you through dense woods and high above the island at certain points. 

Many birds can be found on the island along the trail, and there is a fantastic reward at the end of your hike: a pristine beach with sandstone creations. Our children spent more than an hour exploring them, and watching seals frolic in the water.

If you are looking for more action, Roche Harbour is the place to be. It’s a three-hour boat ride from Sucia and located on the northwest tip of San Juan Island. Along our journey, we spotted some small porpoises swimming alongside of us, much to the delight of the children. 

In the summer on Roche Harbour, a craft market is available for visitors to peruse. It includes everything from T-shirts to homemade goodies. Check out historic Hotel de Haro, which has maintained much of its ambiance from when it first opened its doors in 1886. In the hotel lobby, a guest book boasts the signature of President Theodore Roosevelt, who was known to have stayed there.

A fun swimming pool in the harbour will appeal to both children and adults alike. It’s $7 per person to swim for those not staying on the island or docking at a slip. It’s a perfect way to pass a lazy summer afternoon.

An interesting place for history buffs to visit is the English camp on the island, once used by the British army. The historical “Pig War” happened here between the Americans and the British. 

The site is beautifully maintained, surrounded by pear trees and monuments representing the time that had been spent there by the soldiers. A short film on the historical landmark can be viewed in the Visitor’s Centre, and if you’re lucky, you may encounter some of the many deer that inhabit the island, who are drawn to the pear trees.

In the evening, the “taking down of the flags” ceremony can be watched on shore. As God Save the Queen plays, along with O Canada and The Star Spangled Banner, you can hear horns honking in the distance from the vessels representing the various countries, docked in the Marina.

A perfect hidden gem not to be missed is Stuart Island, which provides visitors a great respite from the hustle and bustle of life. We put a crab trap down, before heading in to explore the island. On our return, we were pleasantly surprised to discover that we had caught two very large crabs in the trap, which provided a decadent dinner that night.

Because of the sheltered location of the island, it’s a great place to kayak and camp. The island is serene and has a great deal to offer for outdoor enthusiasts. After a short hike, we came across the local school at the top, and a small kiosk filled with island gifts, which operates on the honour system. 

The San Juan Islands offer up something for everyone, but more than anything, they all provide the feeling of truly getting away from it all — and the best part is, for those of us on the West Coast, it’s the perfect way to spend a week on the water.

Kelley Scarsbrook

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