The life of a farmers’ market vendor can seem rather idyllic. You set up a booth in the sunshine selling something you feel passionate about while chatting with customers like old friends. But by the time market day rolls around, the majority of the hard work is done, and the serene appearances of a stall holder belies hours spent bringing it all together.
Neal Harkins, operator and owner of Rootables Chips, knows how that feels. He sometimes works day and night making sure there are plenty of fresh, locally made chips at the Squamish Farmers’ Market.
“Some days I’m cooking on Friday for the Saturday market and then, when that’s done, I’m cooking on the Saturday night for the Whistler market on Sunday… I’ve even cooked till 5 in the morning and been selling the chips the next day.”
During the summer he can go through 1,000 lb. of vegetables a week, he says, and all are sliced, cooked and seasoned in small batches by hand. “That’s what gives the chips their unique crunch and shape. It gives them their artisan look.”
He sources vegetables as locally as possible and for two years had just two flavours – white truffle potato chips and mixed root vegetable chips (yams, potatoes, beets, parsnips and taro). In the third year, he introduced zesty bruschetta potato chips and now, in his sixth year, he’s introduced lemon-flavoured kale chips and garam masala curry chips, “which is outselling the others like crazy,” he says.
He also works full-time as the executive chef at the Whistler Conference Centre and relies on the whole family pulling together to make Rootables a success.
“It’s challenging… but the team behind you really makes it work. I wouldn’t be able to do it without my wife, for sure, and my children jumping in when we need them.”
While Neal cooks the chips and masters the flavours, his wife and three children help bag everything. “The kids actually work some of the markets as well,” he says, explaining the family can do as many as seven markets in one week, from Ladner to Whistler.
On average they sell between 400 and 1,000 bags of chips in one weekend, and during the winter craft markets, they sell as many as 3,000. “By the time December rolls around, I go on vacation,” he laughs.
Passion and enthusiasm fuel his busy lifestyle. “I’ve always been told I’m a dreamer, I think that’s what drives me. I’ve can envision the big picture.” Right now he’s motivated to secure a retail deal and is working with one particular chain at the moment to make that happen.
In the meantime, he’s still getting used to the idea of his product being a ‘must-have’ at the market. “A customer will say, ‘My wife has you on my shopping list.’ I always find that so funny to hear.”
If Rootables Chips is on your shopping list, you’ll find them at the Squamish Farmers’ Market – among other markets – throughout the summer.
The Squamish market is found on the corner of Victoria and Cleveland avenues Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
