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Back in black, a tale of berry booty

"Oh, blackberry tart, with berries as big as your thumb, purple and black, and thick with juice, and a crust to endear them that will go to cream in your mouth, and both passing down with such a taste that will make you close your eyes and wish you m

"Oh, blackberry tart, with berries as big as your thumb, purple and black, and thick with juice, and a crust to endear them that will go to cream in your mouth, and both passing down with such a taste that will make you close your eyes and wish you might live forever in the wilderness of that rich moment."

- Richard Llewellyn

This is the time of the year when you see people like me sneaking around with ice cream buckets in hand in search of the illustrious blackberry.

We all have our favourite picking spots, and not one of us is willing to give that secret away. I recently became so obsessed with finding the jackpot that I actually considered stalking my friend and fellow berry-picker to the picking spot she holds so dear.

Realizing that since I did not own any camouflage pattern clothing she would be on to me, I had to find my own secret stash.

The reasons for loving blackberries are many, but it is perhaps the desire to hold onto the last vestiges of summer that make us wade through thorns, stinging nettles and wasps nests just to reach that fat glistening berry.

Known as the "cabernet of berries" for its earthy, wine-like taste, it is easy to see why blackberries are highly sought after in culinary circles. Yes they are great on vanilla ice cream, make a killer jam, and bake nicely into cakes and muffins, but they also make mouth-watering sauces, salsas and compotes.

Rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, C, potassium and calcium, blackberries help the body in fighting free radicals and thus, avoid various types of cancer, especially breast and cervical cancer.

Regular consumption of blackberries can help strengthen the blood vessels in your body, and the high fibre content helps to maintain digestive health, control blood sugar, lose weight and lower cholesterol levels. Not to mention that the flavonoids present in blackberries promote vision health by preventing macular degeneration.

If you must buy store bought blackberries, shop with your nose. Always pick the plumpest and most fragrant berries. They should be firm, bright, and fresh looking with no mould or bruises. If possible, buy locally grown berries.

They're likely to be sweeter and juicier than those that are bred for shipment. Select berries that are in dry, unstained containers. Stained containers may indicate over soft berries that are not freshly picked.

Mould on berries spreads quickly. Never leave a mouldy berry next to a good one.

Do not wash or hull berries until you're ready to use them, and refrigerate unwashed berries as soon as possible.

Store them in a colander in the refrigerator. This allows the cold air to circulate around them.

Remove berries from refrigerator one to two hours before serving. Berries are at their fullest flavour at room temperature.

Poached cod with blackberry salsa

Salsa:

1 cup fresh blackberries

1 green onion or cup red onion, diced

2 Tbsp lemon juice

1 clove garlic, pressed

dash of salt, pepper

1/4 tsp ancho chile powder or 1 fresh jalapeno seeded and finely chopped

Toss together lightly. Set aside.

Poached cod

Ingredients

6 cups cold water

1/4 cup dry white wine

3 medium shallots, thinly sliced

3 medium red potatoes, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced on the bias

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 medium bay leaves

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

4 (6-ounce) cod fillets

1/2 medium lemon, sliced paper thin

6 sprigs fresh parsley, stems trimmed and coarsely chopped

Instructions

Combine water, wine, shallots, potatoes, carrot, salt, bay leaves, and peppercorns in a large shallow-sided pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low until liquid is at a simmer.

When poaching liquid is barely simmering, add fish in a single layer, making sure it is completely covered with liquid.

Poach until cod flesh is opaque and flakes easily (internal temperature should be 175F) and vegetables are fork tender, about seven minutes. To serve, place a fish fillet on each of four plates, divide vegetables evenly, and top fish with salsa.

Serve with a glass of Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Noir, which will marry nicely with the blackberry salsa.

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